Wormhole, National Geographic  
Wormhole, National Geographic

Style 04.07.19

The Fashion Wormhole Series:
Summer 2019

Words by Nazanin Shahnavaz
 

Nazanin Shahnavaz presents  THE FASHION WORMHOLE, a series connecting the widely separated regions of space-time from the season’s latest trends. Fashion is an infinite loop, stuck in an endless rush for the new. Season after season designers produce collections, shows and campaigns amalgamating a dense web of references that split and sprout into a frenzy of disparate trends. Navigating this terrain stretches consciousness across space-time, leaping into the past and future through a cyclone of zeitgeists, Instagram moments and hot new accessories. Just in time for the summer, Nazanin enters the fashion wormhole, exploring the moods, themes and moments underpinning your SS19 out-of-office wardrobe.

Light some incense and step into the Sixties with motifs from the decade that popularised LSD, brought us to the moon and into the dreams of Martin Luther King Jr.. From retro colour palettes at Carhartt WIP to tie-dye at Helmut Lang and flower-power sneakers by VANS, psychedelic vibes dominate the season. These aesthetics were born in a period of great social, political and cultural upheaval, and their revival on the runway holds up a mirror to our tumultuous times as we sink under a rising tide of existential crises. Turn on, tune in, drop out, again.

Anti-Vietnam war demonstrators (1967)
Collina Strada Fall 2019
The Trip (1967)
First Moon Landing Forever Stamps

If you enjoy nothing more then dressing like you’ve stepped off the pages of Outdoor Life magazine, than this may be the latest trend for you. Whether it’s a pair of Oakley’s fishing-inspired sunglasses, tactical vests covered in clips and pockets by A Cold Wall* or ALYX’s cleated hiking boots, the aesthetics of practicality prevails. Drawing from the high-performance apparel of the military and sport hunters, these uniforms of authority are designed to withstand all terrains and conditions, even if only symbolically. These darker undertones of personal defence and survivalism may reflect the cold sobriety of our neoliberal moment. The end is near. Equip yourself.

Anti-Vietnam war demonstrators (1967)
Trout Fisherman Issue 504
Marine Serre Spring 2019
Cabela’s Catalogue 2019

The 90s Cybergoth aesthetic is having a comeback. Inspired by the futuristic rave culture of the time, this style often features UV-fluorescent colours set against a black gothic outfit and accessorised with leather chokers, fishnets and chunky platforms. First emerging from the ecstasy-tinged EDM scene, where trance morphed with high-BPM industrial genres, Cybergoths proposed a vision that amplified personal idiosyncrasies and hedonism. Thirty years later, references can be found in the wardrobes of Grimes and Princess Nokia with updated looks that sit somewhere between the Matrix and the post-apocalyptic teen TV series The Tribe. This season’s Off-White fluorescent windbreaker, 032c’s leg harness, Nike’s WMNS mesh top with neon strap details and Eytys chunky sandals all raise a glowstick to the Cybergoth legacy.

The Tribe (1999)
Jenny Atomik, Cyberpunk Designer, San Francisco, 2008
"Kill V. Maim", Grimes
Vetements Spring 2019

A minimalist response to the constant connection, digital noise and oversharing that dominates our lives, this season’s move towards beige-coloured clothing evokes an escape from our preoccupations and a search for simplicity. Arguably set in motion by minimalist patron Kanye West and his notorious Yeezy SS17 collection, think of the trend as fashion’s equivalent to a sensory deprivation tank, a deliberate reduction of excess stimuli. Pull down the blinds, turn off all notifications and disappear into your surroundings with a floor length ALYX mackintosh, cushioned OLAS-AB slippers and transparent tote bags by Maison Margiela – a self-imposed isolation chamber for the ultimate staycation.

Kanye West's Sunday Service
Y/Project Spring 2019
Lisa and Homer Try Sensory Deprivation
Miu Miu Spring 2019